amalthya: (bad day)
Sunday 3:46 pm

I'm sort of glad that I had my mental "goodbye" yesterday evening, because the new day of Sunday feels so strange, having a third person here.

The chimps seem to be responding too. I'm a snuggle mother -- calm, relaxed, grooming -- and I don't really play hard and rough with them -- I'd prefer if they played with each other. Not only does it save me potentially lost fingers and thumbs, but I feel like it's a more natural interaction for them.

Liz is wonderful with the chimps, but her approach is much more of a rough and tumble playing one. I'm obviously not sure if the chimps reflect that change in their behavior, but yesterday, Etaito had tons of calm moments where he'd come to me for some grooming.

Today, though, he's on a tear and I've received more bites today than I have in the last two months. Hard ones too. My normal tactics of hooting to show that it's hurting isn't working either. He's so angry. Does he know?

If anything it's making it easier to go, but at the same time it makes me slightly reminiscent for the time when it was "just us" and I didn't feel so out on a limb.

... So to speak.

Liz and I had a nice lunch at the Hotel Nyira. My dad called with Skype and finalized things for his trip here -- Wednesday!!

Anyway, it does feel like I'm "handing over" today and I almost just wish that it went faster.

I've also talked tons with Liz about "the life" out here, and seeing her intensity and self-started projects and disinterest in any sort of "real" life (whatever that really is) makes me wonder whether, for the long term, if this is what I really want.

Sure, Delphine had a Brad. Rita has a Jeremie. But 90% of the other people out here have absolutely sacrificed love, family, children, to live this path. Maybe it's my incredible love for the chimps, but uh, I really know that I want children (I almost just wrote "chimps" ... hehe)

And a family. I don't have this intense push to save everything, or everyone, or initiate projects on my own. Do I absolutely love being here, and making a difference? Yes. Without a doubt.

Either way, this last week has been really illuminating. And now, it really is time to go.
amalthya: (Tyrol Fangirl)
Friday 7:57 am

It seems incredible to think about, but each of the chimpanzees has gained 2 kilos since I arrived. [ profile] bkleber went through my photos -- from Week 32 backwards -- and commented on how the chimps already look twice the size now that they did 3 months ago. Which is so exciting!

I might replace my favorite time from "feeding" to "first thing in the morning" ... I woke up this morning, before the drums AND the sun, and went to get the sound of the drums on audio.

But the chimps were awake! Already! It was so funny to see them all there, sitting up, looking bewildered, sticking their heads out of the mosquito net, their sheets rumpled and their hair messy. Okeysha has some of the worst bed head ever, and it's not helped by the fact that she can't really comb it down. So she runs around most of the day with bed-head.

I went to empty my trash in the pit, and all three chimps jumped up onto me. Usually I have one chimp, maybe two, but three is officially TOO heavy. I'm rather glad I never had to make a run for it! Especially with 6 extra kilos...

Kanabiro on my back decided that, first thing in the morning, she had to pee. Of course, she didn't get OFF my back, and, as part of some karmic retribution for making fun of her for peeing on herself, she peed all over the back of me. Ack! I did remove her before I became saturated, but I did still have to change my clothes. So I'm back to my falling-down jeans that Etaito seems fond of attempting to pull down.

Having the chimpanzees at the crack of dawn is sort of funny, because they're not really quite awake yet... All three of them were sort of sprawled on my lap in various stages of awake-ness. Moving was very optional, and lots of yawning ensued. I of course could empathize since it's always nice to wake up but sort of loll in bed before actually getting up...

I'm sure saying this is sort of like beating a dead horse, but I'm constantly amazed by their little individual quirks. When Kanabiro eats maracuja (passion fruit), instead of opening it up and sucking out the seeds, she punctures it, quick suck, removes it from her mouth, turns it over, and repeats this little "dance" over and over again. She ends up missing half the seeds inside, and Etaito usually comes by later and picks up the husk, opens it up gets the leftovers.

When Okeysha rides on your back, she likes to lift her leg over your right shoulder and put her head on your left. Sort of like she's a chimp stole. Sometimes she'll wrap her arm around your neck too, strangling and breathing her constantly congested snorting right in your ear. hee hee.

When Kanabiro rides on your back, she feels like a backpack, because she secures herself very solidly and digs her feet in right above your hip bones. Sometimes I can feel her nibbling the ends of my hair, or the hairs on the nape of my neck, which tickles.

Etaito often gets tired of riding and decides he'd rather stand on your head, jump off, and grab onto whatever he can. Most often hair. When you're a Congolese man with a shaved head, this isn't much of a problem. Thankfully, I have plenty of hair to lose but I certainly won't for long at this rate.

I did finally get video of Etaito running bipedally, which is honestly one of the funniest things one can see. He holds his arms out to the side to balance himself, and sort of wobbles back and forth. I shouldn't laugh. It probably hurts his feelings!

Anyway, Liz is coming tonight at 5 pm. ... Yea.

I'm thinking that perhaps when I leave Monday that I'll go through Ruhengeri and spend a night there instead of in Kisoro... I'll check with Chris. Wow, it really is a countdown now!!


Mar. 18th, 2006 12:44 pm
amalthya: (goblin)
Wednesday 6:05 pm

Chimpanzee females are built, evolutionarily, to pee standing up. If someone actually wants me to explain this or diagram, I will, but somehow I don't think it's necessary.

Now, you'd hope that with such a "customization" that Kanabiro could avoid peeing all over herself, but no. She and Etaito were playing tonight, ON my lap, where I'll mention that Etaito did this hilarious Chuck Norris-esque roundhouse kick where he lifted his leg and spun around, kicking Kanabiro in the shoulder.

Beside the point -- Kanabiro goes outside, knocks over the broom, plays with it for 2 seconds before peeing -- all over the broom, and all over herself. She was standing RIGHT NEXT to the step so she could have dangled over it and just avoided the mess.

Oh, poor girl. And now, I am totally not picking you up afterwards.



Also, all I ate today was a quarter-pineapple and a mandazi. If I don't get some food soon, I am so eating Etaito.
amalthya: (love popsicle)
Tuesday 1:20 pm

I love Chimpanzee lunchtime. We were all playing outside -- it's been really beautiful before noon every day for the past week, and the chimps were additionally excited because Balume, their caregiver who now only cares for Shege, was in the compound visiting them.

I remember when I first came to the Chateau Chimpanzee -- Balume was a full-time babies caregiver since Shege hadn't yet arrived. Balume was, by far, Etaito's favorite. One of my most severe bitings was, in fact, when Balume was doing his wash and Etaito couldn't find him, went into a panic, and took out the frustration on one of my knees, through my jeans.

Now that Balume isn't here anymore, it was just so clear how much things had changed as I watched him interact with Balume today. Of course he was happy to see him and jumped into his arms straightaway. The longer Balume was there, though, the more I realized how "important" I'd become as Etaito would rush Balume, biting him, playing rough, stealing his shoes, and then come back to me, hop into my lap and want snuggles and grooming.

It made me so proud, and also so honored to have won this tiny chimpanzee's trust, and, dare I say, "love"... And once you're being treated like a mother, it's hard not to act like one. Achilles came in with the food Mwacca had just purchased for the chimps, and I saw the bag come in and initiated the food-hoot. Okeysha ran down from the tree, and Etaito jumped onto my back.

Okeysha crawled up my front and I hooted, they hooted -- Etaito right into my ear (since he was behind me) as we headed over to the big plastic bag. Achilles grabbed a big banana and reached down to give it to Etaito.

"No," I scolded. "Etaito n'aime pas les grand bananes. Il mange seulment les petites bananes!"

Almost in sync, Etaito took the big banana from Achilles and threw it onto the ground. I reached into the bag, reassurance-hooting and took a handful of small bananas, as well as some passion fruit and hooted as I opened the passion fruits for the kids.

Kanabiro gets so excited when there's food that she jumps up and down, smacking her feet hard on every landing. Of course, when she's sitting on you, it's somehow less fun, but still funny.

Bonane was putting away the food into the fridge as the kids kept eating. I had both Kanabiro and Okeysha climbing on me, so I decided to sit down. I backed into the chair and plopped down. Etaito climbed up onto my lap and I helped him open a passion fruit. The gooey slimey seeds went all over my lap and after he got up, I tried to brush them off.

Bonane wanted to sweep up the fruit carnage from the cement floor, so I went to stand up, helping Etaito get onto my back. When Bonane started to laugh!

"Que passé?" I said in my awful, wrong French.

"Regardez!! Le Banane!" squealed Bonane.

... Yeaa... I guess there'd been banana in the chair when I sat down. Because I had smushed, slimy banana all over my butt.

My friends know how much I hate the "eating banana" noise. It colors my opinions of bananas in general, having to hear that gross slimy smacking whenever someone is eating banana. Amazingly, chimpanzees don't seem to make that noise with bananas, although they make it with every single other kind of food.

Had I known what the feeling of smushed wet banana in fabric was SO disgusting, I'd never have complained about the sound. Just trying to brush the banana off my butt was horrific. I couldn't help but laugh, because as I squealed, Achilles and Bonane laughed, and Etaito protested that I was moving more than 2 feet away from him.

The whole thing was sort of farcical -- since I already had passion fruit seeds all over the front of me, it was pointless to try to wipe the banana off the back of me. Every time I brushed somewhere new, there'd be more banana.

After everything, we went and flopped on the mattress in the "drop" between the two houses. The kids played and I nearly fell asleep.

I've got more video to upload but I'm honestly not sure when I'll be in the office next. I'm still not sure at all when Debby and Liz are coming, and I'll admit to being nervous about my five days with Liz. I'm also not sure if Debby will think I did a "good job" since I was never really sure to start with what it was I should be doing. hehe.

Either way, my dad and Ruth get to Uganda in 8 days and I get to the US in 14!! Time really is running up!

Lovely Day

Mar. 12th, 2006 07:44 pm
amalthya: (love popsicle)
Friday 2:53 pm

I decided today that if I really didn't want matoke that I'd just go and walk to the Lebanese restaurant. Plus, despite my alleged robbed-ness, I do actually really enjoy taking walks on my own.

As it's the rainy season, there is also a shortage of beautiful sunny days. And wow, today was both.

Mohammed, the Lebanese restaurant owner, was wear a blindingly banana-yellow-colored fabric suit, but it was nice that he came over to talk to me and really, just to have someone to talk to. I've started reading a new book this week, An Instant In the Wind by André Brink, and it's about this woman in the bush of Africa.

There was a line that struck me, because it felt like it hit very close to home for me.

This no one can take away from us, not even ourselves


Since I've taken to painting at night, it leaves the days free to spend time with the chimps and make up for the photos I "lost". I've already gotten my requisite injuries for the day -- I was in the chair, right leg over left. Etaito was on a bandit spree this morning, determined to bite everyone and everything. He jumped up onto my lap, teeth bared, and I leaned right to avoid his chomp.

Well, plastic chairs on uneven volcanic ground aren't known for their stability, and over the chair went with me in it. I landed on a root and luckily missed the more jagged rocks, but it did scare Etaito and he clutched me, forgetting for a minute that I was fun to chew.

Edit 3:52 pm: I've just uploaded my photos and video to the computer and discovered, quite humorously, that I was taking video when Etaito jumped me and my chair fell over. I'm sure people will get a good laugh when I upload THAT on Sunday. Tee hee!!

Further Edit -- Monday at 3:06 am The video is here

It's hard not to anthropomorphize it all. I feel like I know these chimpanzees so individually that when they have their little interactions, my brain just transforms it automatically.

I sat at the edge of the "porch" this afternoon with Etaito on my lap. Faustin was to my left, and the "drop" between the two houses to my right. Kanabiro was in the drop,and when Faustin got up, she rushed to go past my lap and get to him. Etaito thought that she was trying to bogart his spot on my lap, and bit her on the head everytime she tried to jump up. She had no way of going around, and, to her, Faustin was just leaving and she was unable to follow.

He finally got curious himself about what Faustin was doing and got up, going left. Kanabiro jumped up, ran past me and smacked Etaito hard.

"How dare you keep me from my 'mommy'!"

Etaito bit her on the back, more fiercely than usual.

"I'll do what I want, biznatch. I'm da man!!"

Kanabiro screamed really loudly, a specific whatever-you're-doing-is-the-kind-of-play-that-ends-in-a-cry-and-is-not-cool sort of chimpanzee vocalization.

"God! Why are you always such a JERK?! I hate you! You're the worst chimpanzee ever!!!"

Etaito suddenly stopped biting her and hooted quietly, his eyes softening simultaneously. He embraced Kanabiro really tightly and clutched her on the floor in a bearhug.

"I'm sorry, babe. Sometimes I don't know my own strength. Friends again?"

... Okay, so I've taken some liberties, but seriously, it's hard not to just go with the flow while you're watching the whole thing unfold.

I know I talk too about chimpanzee facial expressions a lot, but it's just all the more special because chimpanzees can make so many more expressions. Their upper lips aren't attached to their gums like ours are, so the lip-movements they make are that much more exaggerated and almost caricature-esque.

Etaito was falling asleep, and he clutched his feet to his chest sort of like I sometimes do. He was a furry little pretzel. His muscles relaxed as he fell into a deep sleep, and, as it would happen, his arms released his legs and they fell, spread-eagle. He awoke with a start. "Ahh!? Where are my legs?!"

He realized that they were just off to the side, pulled them in again, and went back to sleep. It was really just so funny. They finally did fall to the sides again and by then, he was too fast asleep to notice. So it just slept, in a furry "V" shape, a little grin on his lips as he twitched in dream.

I'm realizing too how little time I'll have in Uganda before my dad and Ruth get there. If Debby comes the 13th, stays 5 days so I can hand things over to Liz, then that's the 18th, head back to Uganda, the 19th, then my dad and Ruth arrive the 22nd!!

I'll have to schedule my Beauty Tips Trip ASAP!
amalthya: (silly crazy)
Thursday 11:50 pm

Why am I up so late you may ask? Well, in trying to paint the other house today, I discovered that just maybe I should have waited until after I painted to take out the windows.

Long story short: It was a big failure.

So, I waited tonight until the chimps fell asleep to go in and surreptitiously paint. I'm sort of exhausted now, mostly because I painted in a big damned hurry.

I also discovered as I was re-creating my albums and Favorites that iPhoto arbitrarily left certain photos in the folders, but didn't actually import them. It meant that I had to go through each individual folder and essentially re-upload. Looking back on it, the reason I did this whole fancy "Restore Library" thing was because I was trying to avoid that, because I'm lazy. And, well, I can't say that I don't wish I'd just done it that way from the start.

Kanabiro is so willful when it comes to falling asleep. She doesn't play as hard as the other kids, and I guess she just has more energy, but she refused to go to sleep tonight until about 10:30 pm. Funnily, when she finally WAS tired, she just flopped onto the bed with this sort of high pitched wheeze/sigh and just snored where she landed. I tried not to laugh too loudly for fear I'd wake her up.
amalthya: (goblin)
Thursday 10:46 am

It sort of amazing to think but this morning, Okeysha took some wire trash she found on the ground and started termite-fishing in this hole in the side of the Chateau Chimpanzee.

What's amazing about it is that chimpanzees have culture that's totally specific to each individual group, and it's taught from mother to daughter and what-not. I wondered as I watched her who had taught Okeysha, if anyone at all. It was just awesome to see those things that seem so flat in a book acting themselves out in real life.

I spent the majority of yesterday in my room sulking and feeling upset. I watched DVDs and did needlepoint, convincing myself that having those good needlepointing brainwaves would make me feel better. And they did.

Today feels much better, along with hope that all isn't lost and that perhaps I'll find the hard drive yet. I went out this morning and took tons more photos and video too... I guess I realized how fleeting this experience is and how much capturing it indelibly means to me.

I'm still using iPhoto, warily. I'm not ever going to trust it again, and well, "magically" I suddenly have 5 GB more free on my harddrive. Fah.

I've now got photos of my wedding dress fabric, which is good. I'll put those up, and I think I'll head to the office on Sunday instead of Monday since I think people will arrive Monday night-ish. Or probably Tuesday morning.

Either way, I'm feeling much improved. Thanks for asking.
amalthya: (primates)

Beautiful Eyes
Originally uploaded by amalthya.
Monday 11:26 pm

Want to know what it's like, chilling with a chimpanzee on your lap?

Check this out:

Okeysha On An Afternoon

Etaito and Okeysha Playing

It's a hard life being a pimp.. I mean, a Monkey Pillow

amalthya: (bad day)
Monday 11:04 am

I'm totally thinking that I shouldn't make another post, considering the guilt I feel for my "Laura f-list dump" on Mondays as it is.

But I'm sitting here in the office and, well, once again, the man with the key -- Jean Bosco, the accountant -- who has the internet power supply in his office and turns it off while he's gone -- is not here.

He got a flat tire, which means that I'm sitting here, offline, waiting for him to get to work. No one else has the key to his office. I can't help but be annoyed that this is an enormous waste of my time.

I did, however, have a totally glorious morning and I made sure to use all of the additional-cost things at the Kivu Sun. Breakfast when you're not a guest is $12 and swimming is $10. So, as a guest, I partook in both.

They didn't have any strawberries sadly but they DID have salami and tastee cheese and juice and danishes with icing and omelettes and rice krispies and I'll admit fully that I stuffed myself.

It was slightly discomforting when the waiter, named "Innocent" told me about his friend who was trying to sell white people a chimpanzee. I somehow convinced him to turn his friend into the ICCN by baiting him with my phone number, so that he could call me and tell me about it. He won't know that I probably won't be here by the time he calls, but I'm glad that some awful chimp trafficker is going to be caught.

I tried to explain to "Innocent" how violent and horrible the whole escapade is, but I don't think anyone really understands.

Ah well. I almost didn't want to leave the Kivu Sun at all. And, sitting here in this warm office, I sort of wish I hadn't!
amalthya: (primates)
Friday 7:31 pm

We're enjoying the most fabulous and wild thunderstorm right now. Etaito, who was planning to sleep on the mattress outside, alone, came in and immediately started being a scared kid when the thunder struck.

Okeysha is always the first to fall asleep, but she wakes up at any little thing and immediately clings to the closest person.

Kanabiro refuses to sleep, and instead decides to eat the pee sheet that I labored over for so many hours. Or jump on me. Or jump on Okeysha, and wake her up.

In totally unrelated news, I don't think I can stand much more Fufu (the Congolese standard dish) or matoke or haricot (beans). Or even, for that matter, cous-cous. I'm trying to save the rest of my money for general curio-buying before I leave, and staying away from Trameco, but, as a result, instead of eating actual food, I just constantly chew gum that I bought at Trameco ages ago -- it has "Stim" in the title which makes me wonder if it's laced with crack caffeine, but it's sugar free. Of course, it tastes like I imagine Carmex lip-balm would, but it at least keeps my mouth busy and fools my stomach into thinking it's full of food.

I'm dying for Twizzlers, or Nibs, or Twix bars, or Reeses Pieces. Or turkey burgers. Oh turkey burgers!

It's nice when Faustin is here, because he always strives to take care of me and knows that I can't stand fufu and he makes me frites (french fries). He uses an oceans-worth of salt, but god they're still yummy. And he offers to make them. I'm hardly white obnoxious enough to ask that Bonane prepare me an entirely separate meal.

*groan of hunger*
amalthya: (silly crazy)
Thursday 5:54 pm

First, a happy 20th birthday to [ profile] emobus!!

It seems almost surreal as I sit out on the stoop, three chimpanzees all biting each other (and thankfully not me) as I listen to the brusk static of the loudspeaker of the church next door, having its evening mass.

Kanabiro and Etaito are wrestling, and it's especially nice to see since Kanabiro doesn't usually play with the other kids. When you spend a lot of time with the kids, you start to see their different personalities quickly -- but their different damage comes later. Because, well, it's really sad, but each one of these chimps really is "damaged goods" ... they've all already had horribly traumatic experiences. They just show it differently.

Etaito -- well -- his damage is more obvious.

But Kanabiro -- Faustin, one of the caregivers, describes her as "triste" -- sad. And you look at her, and vraimente... it's totally true. She isolates herself from the others, and, even when she's up in the tree, playing, she's always on her own.

Her favorite activities include sticking her fingers in your mouth and spinning around until she falls down. It's like a nightmare personals ad.

Etaito was very intent on playing with her nonetheless tonight. Kanabiro's fighting strategy was very evidently sorely lacking. This is my Kanabiro-Etaito Mortal Kombat Fight RPG:

>Etaito lunges at you, his teeth bared!

/put foot in his mouth

>Etaito bites your foot. You scream in pain and take 5 points of physical damage

/run away

>Etaito chases you as you run away and grabs your tender rear-end hairs. You scream and take another 5 points of physical damage

/hug Etaito

>Etaito seizes the opportunity of your embrace and bites you on your head. Take 15 points of physical damage. Chimpanzee Valkyrie needs food badly!!

/climb up pole

>Etaito pulls you down and you fall. Take another 2 points of physical damage.

/present for teh sex0r

>Etaito mounts you and has sex with you. Take 20 points of dignity damage. You have failed.

>Please insert more quarters to continue.

It was so funny and so pathetic all at once.


In very good news, everyone is wondering whether Shege really doesn't have TB. I told Balume and Faustin (her caregivers) to tell me immediately if she coughed (toux!) but as of yet, in a week she hasn't coughed once. Very good signs, and even Eddy, one of the veterinarians from the Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project, is wondering himself whether she has it or not. I'm just praying that she doesn't have it.

Meanwhile, at the office, while the cat boss is away, the staff will play. In addition to having to fight with Olivier to get "permission" to have Carol's bag shipped to Uganda -- something Rita approved before she left, Beatrice, the office cleaning lady, who Rita instructed to do the laundry for the Chateau Chimpanzee, is now refusing to do the laundry of the caregivers -- because she has "too much to do."

She'd originally claimed too that she was too busy to do mine too, but that lie was quickly squelched. I don't envy anyone who's forced into a management position here -- ugh! I'm getting annoyed just being the only muzungu trying to get things done!

Additionally, I continue to be dirty. The water has been off in the Chateau for nearly 3 days straight now, so even if I wanted an icy cold, spasmodically pressured shower (which I totally do now) , I couldn't take one.

I will say that I'm nearing 13,000 words -- 32 single-spaced pages. Hurrah.
amalthya: (Default)
Wednesday 9:48 am

Woa, it's March! When did that happen? During my course of writing, I've been re-reading a lot of my journal entries from like, 1995 and 1996. And I realized that today is the 10 year anniversary of my first kiss! Funny!

I slept better last night than I have in a really long time. It's probably because, after seeing my sad mattress on the floor, Rita went and had the project get me a real bedframe, sheets and a blanket. Oh, and pillows! Previously I'd been using my monkey airplane neck pillow, given to me by [ profile] booksymagnifico, as my sole pillow.

And wow, having a bedframe is really underrated! Funny to think, but the chimpanzees were sleeping more luxuriously than I was before.
Yesterday, after I came back from the office, I was sitting out in the playfield as Etaito slept soundly, his face smushed into my tummy, snoring idly. I looked over and saw this bird, building a nest in the tree right outside the compound. The tree was vibrant, blooming flowers in this almost iridescent purple color.

And suddenly, Goma sort of... came alive to me. I'm not really sure how best to describe it, but I saw past the gray, harsh volcanic rocks and started noticing the living, breathing aspects.

I was like a Polly Pocket before, living in a a world that I perceived to be small, plastic and immutable. Me, walking in front of a blue screen showing some indeterminate locale, with the only part I identified as being "real" and "living" as me. It's a totally narcissistic viewpoint, but considering how many places I've seen, lived in, and stayed in the last 9 months I can certainly understand it.

There are so many concurrent flows of Goma, watching the various families of birds, little furry rodents and people, all trying to survive. I suddenly really liked Goma, and wondered how I would ever leave the chimpanzees. It all felt so real, and feeling the comfort and love of Etaito there, sleeping on my chest... this sounds horrible, and melodramatic, but I... I wasn't sure how I'd live without that. Would everything else feel second-best and ergo somehow meaningless afterwards?

The guy from the office came with the weekly food for the chimpanzees. Okeysha ran over to see what was going on and Etaito, who had slept through the entire entrance, suddenly awoke as he heard Okeysha doing the Food Call.

In the wild, if a chimpanzee or a group has found a particularly big fruit tree or something comparable, they will do this excited call, to alert other chimpanzees and probably also to let off some excitement from the find. It's a very tense time for wild chimpanzees, and, funnily, most of the males become erect with food-excitement.

A lot of times the excitement leads to fights in the wild. Bonobos, on the other hand, diffuse the excitement with sex.

Oh yes, food is an exciting time. Bonane and I went over to the fruit bag and were making the excited food calls. I even ate a banana between calls and god, it was just so much fun. Chimpanzees crawling all over me, calling back and forth to each other and to me, all of us eating bananas.

I'm really glad that Debby isn't coming until at least the 12th now.


amalthya: (Default)

November 2009

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